Jag Hinge Project

E Type Jaguar Door Hinge

I finally decided to do something about the driver’s door on my 1967 S.1 2+2, it’s got some play in the hinge and if I forget to lift it as I close I get an unpleasant clunk. I have looked on the Jag Lovers Site and found some interesting posts and a general search on Goggle came up with a useful article from New Hill Garage, which made me decided to renovate the existing hinge.

I strongly suggest that this article (http://www.newhillgarage.com/Page30.html) be read in conjunction with the information below. Essentially you are taking the old hinge pin out, enlarging the hole and inserting a larger diameter pin.

First things first, a photographic record is recommended as, if the project is over any time period it is easy to forget details.

Commence by taking off the window winder, door lever and armrest plus trim to access the door hinge. I found it beneficial to mark around the existing door hinge before dismantling with a felt tip or masking tape so as to assist with refitting.

Mark up! The door stay has already been removed.

Remove the cosmetic vinyl covering from the edge of the hinge frame.

Now might also be the time to see why that courtesy light never worked!

Remove the door. The complete door on a 2+2 is a heavy item and it’s very easy to damage paintwork edges on its removal, so if you have friends or family handy now is the time to call on favours past. Protect paint edges on door and bodywork with masking tape or something more durable. Removing the 5 hinge bolts from the bodywork and unscrew the courtesy light plunger.

It’s a good idea to remove this chrome strip, which is begging to scratch something or be bent!

Note the masking tape to protect edges of the main bodywork. The door has been suspended and covered away from the car, the knot at the top of the doorframe is not load bearing, it keeps the door upright.

At last the hinge is out.

Though the hinge pinhead can be ground down, I found the jigsaw was quick and clean.

The last bit of the weld in the corner was not accessible using the jigsaw or grinder so I used a metal chisel and file to clean up the surface. Make sure you can see the outline of the pin and then repeat for the other side, note wooden block to protect hinge surfaces.

Drift out the old hinge pin and yes there is room for the pin to drop between the jaws of the vice.

At last the hinge is dismantled, note the 2 brass washers and the oil feed slots.

Having driven the old pin out, you may find that there is a machined flat along the length of the pin. As this was not expected I did not take note of it’s position in relation to the oil feed on the hinge section, which is attached to the door, I have been unable to find out it’s true use but I am minded to think its either an oil feed or it may be there to stop the hinge binding as it’s an aluminium hinge body and a steel pin. It is of interest that the hinge on the passenger’s side does not have an oil feed, and I suspect no flat on the pin. I presume it is not original and is a cheap reproduction.

At this point I suggest you follow the instructions from the New Hill Garage article regarding the enlargement of the hole. I found that manually reaming the hole from 7/16’’ to ½’’ was painfully slow and I ended up running a 15/32’’ drill through the hole and reamed out the remainder, There still seemed plenty of metal left, though it appears that you are removing a lot of metal from the hinge. The good news is that the surface area of the hinge pin has been increased so it is unlikely that you will ever have to do this job again.

Clean everything! The pin is a close push fit.

You will also have to open the holes on the other hinge support, don’t forget to open out the washers and add or replace same to ensure vertical movement of the hinge is at a minimum.

Before welding ensure the washers are in place and the hinge is fitted together correctly. I did put a flat on the pin, but not as generous as the original and lined this up with the oil feed (door open position) before welding.

The usual welding mess I make, incidentally don’t be too generous with the length of the pin as it will foul one of the fixing bolts. The oil feed slot is clearly visible here.